Torridon

Saturday, 15 December

After the drama in the carpark, we set off into the powder, several hours later than predicted. We quickly encountered the owner of the lone other car, a climber on his way out. His report was that it was too early season and the conditions just weren’t right: a prophetic claim. We continued breaking trail, but quickly realised that it would be a very long slog to the base of Morrison’s Gully on the north face of Sail Mhòr. We therefore switched to the backup plan and turned south for Coire Dubh Beag and the Liathach North-South traverse. This would both get us into the action significantly faster and greatly reduce the overall distance. Given the combination of the later than expected start, slower speed due to breaking trail, and short winter days, this was the right call.

By the time we reached the base of Access Gully, we only had about two, three maximum, hours of light left. We therefore made the decision to turn back. This was probably the right call. Not only would we be rapidly running out of daylight, but the snow conditions just weren’t right for a gully. The powdery snow wouldn’t have provided much of anything for an axe and crampons to bite into and since it was the first real snow of the season, there wasn’t any previous buildup. A few more freeze-thaw cycles would be required.

As we arrived back at the the car, a snow/rain mix started. We opted not to make the intended 5km hike to Craig Bothy in the dark, instead heading for a bunkhouse in Achnasheen. We were able to have a hot shower and make arrangements for the next day in relative comfort – we even scored some beers from the owner.

Sunday, 16 December

From the comfort of the bunkhouse, we discussed the next day’s possibilities. Beinn Alligin offered aesthetic perfection, but additional distance on the one-lane A896. In the snow, and with a long drive home ahead of us, the drive was not an appealing prospect. The plan was changed to Beinn Eighe via the Black Carls, a frequently overlooked Winter I/II that would also have the benefit of not requiring an out-of-season gully ascent. Eighe is a beast, more a massif than mountain. A full traverse in winter conditions would be a tall order for a short December day, but we figured we’d get as far as we could. With luck we’d manage the full eastern ridge and descend via the tourist track.

We woke to a gorgeous morning. After the short drive back to Torridon, we were off. Optimistic with the promise of spectacular winter views in front of us – how naïve we were…

Early morning light on the approach

Early-season, unconsolidated snow once again proved challenging. but the gentler slopes and shorter distance made it more tolerable than the previous day.

As we topped out, the ceiling, which had been descending rapidly since we started climbing consumed us. The prospect of an unfamiliar narrow ridge in white-out conditions was not particularly appealing one, so we opted to descend and get a head start on the long drive home. Disappointing, but there was little joy to be gained from progressing.