Vágar

20 April – 1 May 2023

With some time free, my mum suggested a spring trip and a return to the Faroe Islands was soon in the cards. The only alternative destination seriously considered was Red Rocks, USA (Grand Canyon, Bryce Canyon, Zion, etc). Both are destinations I’d previously visited, but both well worth a return. The differences in flight time and an increasingly negative opinion of the US National Parks made the decision easier. Atlantic Air even flies direct from Edinburgh to Vágar!

The first trip to the Faroes was a Christmas trip in 2019. That was a nice trip, but ultimately a little disappointing. Winter in the Faroes has short daylight hours and is characterised by heavy cloud and frequent rain. This was known when planning, but it was hoped that a winter trip would be rewarded with soft lighting and snowcapped hills. Unfortunately, it was too warm for snow and the layers of dense cloud meant the winter lighting only delivered on rare occasions. That’s just the way things go when visiting these destinations though – sometimes the weather gods just aren’t smiling on you.

Given the unfinished business, I had long been considering a return to the Faroes. Unlike most of their North Atlantic neighbours, the Faroes do not have the Right to Roam. This meant wildcamping was out of the question. Given highly volatile weather, camping would have been a hard sell regardless though. I had always envisioned a return trip would be best suited to late spring: late-May/early-June, with the expectation of seeing the islands at their emerald green best. Late-April was at risk of being awkward fringe-season, with a muddy-brown aesthetic.

Like the last trip, we would split our time between north and south. In the North, we stayed on Borðoy in the same Klaksvik AirBnB as the first trip. In the south, we moved from Tórshavn to Miðvágur. The change would allow for more convenient hiking options.

Tuesday – 25 April

As soon as we were dropped off in Miðvágur, I headed out in an attempt to maximise what looked like a decent weather-window.  I started west along an old inter-village path toward the airport, before turning south to ascend Jogvansjall to Vágur’s central spine.  Unfortunately, the weather turned on me almost immediately.  By the time I started my ascent, I was in a white-out.  I pushed on to the top.  There seemed little point in continuing, so I turned in frustration.

Of course the clouds lifted as soon as I descended back to the bootpath…. 

Vágur Airport with Mykines in the background

Late afternoon as the snow passes

By late afternoon, the skies had cleared and much of the snow had melted.

Early evening, after the snow had melted

In the evening, I headed to Leitisvatn: the lake above the ocean. On the way, I met a new friend asking for directions. He was going the same way, so joined. After a stop at Bøsdalafossur, we ascended Ritubergsnøva and followed the ridge before returning to Miðvágur. Views of the southern islands and Streymoy’s islets were a real treat.

Wednesday – 26 April

The next morning, I was excited to see a heavy layer of snow and mostly clear skies!  I had tentatively planned to do a big circuit from Bøur to Gasadalur and along Vágur’s western cliffs.  I couldn’t have asked for more favourable conditions!  Unfortunately, like most else on this trip, things would not go to plan.

I was off to a poor start when my intended bus blazed straight past me.  Immediately after, I saw our AirBnB host on the street.  Whilst asking him about the bus, another motorist overheard me and offered me a lift – he was headed back to the airport regardless.  I gladly accepted and he dropped me in Bøur, from where I could take the inter-village path over the mountain to Gasadalur.  A tunnel through the mountain was only added in 2004.  Without good access to the sea, Gasadalur was one of the most remote settlements in Europe until the tunnel.  Despite the tunnel, the population continues to decline. 

Frustratingly, another blast of snow arrived as I was crossing the mountain,  I got fleeting views of Mykanes, but spent a considerable amount of time in white-out.  My luck would temporarily turn on arrival into town – as soon as I reached Múlafossur, the cloud lifted and I had perfect conditions!  

Normal service soon resumed though.  To reach the northwestern cliffs, I needed to cross a farmer’s field.  Unfortunately, there was a note (in English) fixed to the gate stating that access was temporarily blocked due to concerns regarding the sheep.  Wanting to respect the farmer’s request and with no other way up the hills, I was forced into another complete rethink.

I hitched a ride through the tunnel, back to Bøur, ran to Sørvágur and attempted to reach the cliffs via Fjallavatn.  I was feeling uninspired though, and the boggy ground around Fjallavatn convinced me to turn back.  I returned to Miðvágur via the same inter-village track I used the previous day.

There is a delightful heart-shaped lake nestled in the hills there and I would likely have had access to some interesting views from the tops around Knattarheyggjur.  Oh well.

Gasadalur in the snow

I clearly hadn’t had enough, so after a rest and some calories, I headed back out in the evening! The snow had melted, but I returned to the region across the harbour from Miðvágur.

Thursday – 27 April

A circuit I was particularly excited for was the Five Fells of Sandvágur.  I had identified it as a top target during the planning phase, but it was also highly recommended by the AirBnB host on our drive south.  Conveniently, Sandvágur is just 2.5km from Miðvágur, so I would be able to walk to the start.  My new friend from Leitisvatn the other night was keen to join and I picked him up on the way.

Headying away from Sandavágur

At Sandvágur’s Trøllkonufingur viewpoint, we hopped the fence and headed up.  From Krosstindur and Húsafelli, the first two fells, we had exceptional views of Streymoy’s cliffs.

After a considerably descent, we topped Malinstindur and our views were redirected to across Vestmannasund and toward a gentler side of Streymoy’s topography.

The ridge to access Breiðistíggjur and Heldarstindur, the final two fells, was actually a little spicy, particularly given the dusting of very wet snow lingering.

The five hills of Sandavágur

Descending to Sandvágur, I took the road back to Miðvágur, closing out an exceptional day.

Friday – 28 April

After a very successful day on the Five Fells, it was time to return to Jogvansjall and complete my circuit of the broad ridge running up the centre of the island. This route promised additional exciting views north across Vestmannasund toward Streymoy. If I were really ambitious, I could continue on to Slættanes, the abandoned village at the northern tip of Vágur.

The clouds were lower and the wind stronger, but I headed out and up. At Jogvansjall, I was relieved to have better visibility than the first day (a bar so low you couldn’t even trip over it). The ridge was more interesting than I had anticipated, though a very bitter headwind buffered my every step. At Gásafelli, I turned west and continued over the next few hills to Tungufelli. By then, I had had enough of the wind and headed south and down into a valley to meet back to meet up with the inter-village path from Vatnsoyrar back to Miðvágur.

Hiking the central spine of Vágur

Saturday, 29 April 2023

I had accomplished almost everything reachable on foot from Miðvágur by our final day. Despite my success the other day, and positive reports from others, I was hesitant to commit to hitchhiking to another island. I did not want the stress of being reliant on the benevolence of others with no other way to get home (pedestrians are banned from tunnels). Combined with a rather middling weather outlook, I decided to return to the five fells area that I enjoyed so much a few days prior.

Under hazy skies, I ascended Krosstindur, the first of the fells. Feeling apathetic, I decided to turn around. I had already completed these hills under more favourable conditions, afterall. The decision was further reinforced by a mosquito-like helicopter buzzing up and down the ocean cliff I was following. An underwhelming final outing to a particularly spectacular trip.

In the evening, I again returned to the Leitisvatn area. I had no expectations, but was rewarded by some extremely dynamic clouds! Weather in the Faroes truly is both ephemeral and hyper-localised.

Sunday, 30 April – Monay, 1 May 2023

The final day was a lazy one and the flight out was drama-free.

Miðvágur AirBnB: final night

Despite, and perhaps because of, several unwanted complications, the trip was a resounding success. The varied weather, dramatic lighting, and snowcapped island peaks were even better than my wildest hopes. After two trips, I can feel like I have satisfactorily ‘completed’ the islands. Nonetheless, there is no shortage of new ridges to conquer. Unfortunately, Faeroese attitudes toward land rights mean I am highly unlikely to return.

• Unfortunately, the Faroes are rapidly headed down the same road as Iceland: over tourism and carefully curated ‘hiking’ experiences are just around the corner.
• Unlike most of their Nordic neighbours (and Scotland), the Faroes have never had the right to roam. There was a distinct increase in the number of hikes being pay-walled, often to extortionate levels (25 euros for a 10km solo-hike, parking not required). This beyond disgusting. The right to roam is a hill I am more than willing to die on.
• With more friendly laws and less volatile weather, the Faroes would be an ideal wildcamping destination. Instead, I was very glad to be staying in AirBnBs.
• Transportation complications meant I was unable to get out to as many different islands as I had hoped. There is something very rewarding about getting about entirely on foot though. And I think there were some very cool spots that I would have otherwise missed.
• I should have used the bus more in the Northern Isles. Given my limited experience in Vagar, maybe it is best that I did not though. Surprisingly, all but the airport bus are cash-only too.
• No matter how much I accomplish, I always feel I could/should have done more. There are always more hills to climb.