Torridon

25 – 27 March 2023

As temperatures began to warm and daylight hours lengthened, I figured it was a good opportunity to get back to Torridon. There is no shortage of options in Torridon. Every hill is well worth a climb, whether Munroe or Grahm. I was tempted to attempt the Liathach traverse, but wisely decided that a solo attempt of the pinnacles was ill-advised in the fringe-season. Given the bullet-hard snowfields I would encounter on Beinn Eighe, the logic was very sound. Instead I had a very loose plan to take Meall a’Ghiubhais and Ruadh-stac Beag, two Corbetts north of Beinn Eighe, and approach Beinn Alligin via the heart of Mulcach. For better and for worse, none of this would happen.

A solo trip meant some additional logistics. Torridon is possible by public transit, but the bus from Inverness to Kinlochewe only runs four times a week. My public transit links involved a MegaBus to Inverness, followed by a local bus to Kinlochewe. Upon finding my local bus, I learned that it was cash only! In 2023! I always carry a small amount of emergency cash, but years of travel in Scandinavia meant that I was very used to being able to pay with plastic, even in the middle of the wilderness. My cash reserves had therefore dwindled into insignificance: I had enough to get myself to Torridon, but not back. Counting on the ability to find a cash machine, or at least get cash-back (is that still a thing?), in Kinlochewe/Torridon, I figured the cash was a problem for another time and boarded the bus.

Campsite views from my arrival

My first day started with such promise! After breaking camp and cresting the first rise, I was treated to spectacular views down Maol Cheannan. Excited for the perfect day ahead, I started up my first top: Ruadh-stac Beag, a Corbett extending from one of the arms of Beinn Eighe. Only an hour later, I would be topping out in a rapidly dropping ceiling. Disappointed, I descended and traversed the southern wall of Maol Cheannan, careful to stay high enough to keep my feet dry.

Continuing west, the weather fully turned as I approached Coire Mhic Fhearchair. The hills formed something of a natural wind-tunnel and I was battered by gale-force winds as I watched the rain scream toward me. When it arrived, I discovered that in addition to rain, there was a healthy amount of hail – what fun! I took that as my cue to find an early campsite, preferably in a more sheltered location. Given the wind-direction, I figured the mass of Beinn Dearg was my best shot. There was never any danger, but that sort of weather is just unpleasant to be out in, particularly in the open.

Waves of weather continued to roll in and out as I searched for my campsite. Of course it stabilised as soon as I established camp… From my camp, I had a nice view of the north face of Liathach. Both Way Up and Access Gully were well defined, retaining a sliver of snow. Far too lean to climb though.

Not the campsite I had planned, but not a bad result at all!

I spent the night listening to snow/hail battering my tent. Waking just before dawn, I feared the worst as I opened the tent. Fortunately, the weather seemed to have blown through and the early morning light revealed nearly cloudless skies. Still before sunrise, I broke camp and was on my way. I was hoping to capture the morning light from my intended campsite at Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair as it hit the centre of Glen Torridon. On the way, I passed Morrison’s Gully – another of the routes that eluded me (snow conditions were not right) a few months prior. A sliver of snow remained here too. It is an attractive line and I look forward to returning for it – maybe next winter!

Halfway between Bealach Gorm and Spidean Coire nan Clach (the Munro) on Beinn Eighe, I encountered a gent heading in the opposite direction. He was surprised to see me. He had arrived late the previous night for a summit bivouac and was apparently the only car in the carpark. He was even more surprised when I told him that I had taken the bus and offered me a lift back to Perth if I were willing to wait for him. Given my cash situation, I snapped up the offer! After discussing conditions, we carried on our way.

I tagged the Munro and continued along the ridge that had eluded me a few months back – toward the Black Carls. The Black Carls were a little less exciting than they would have been in winter conditions, but the simple scramble was still good value. I backtracked to the carpark, found my new friend’s car, and spent an hour or two reading in the sun.

I planned another return for the Easter Bank Holiday, when I would aim to complete a route from Gairloch to Kinlochewe. Unfortunately, bus delays, primarily due to the the nightmare Perth roundabout, meant that I missed my connection in Inverness. With no alternative means of transportation, and the next bus not departing for 48hours, I was forced to jump straight back on a bus, south to Edinburgh.

Approximate route maps: Part I, Beinn Eighe Classic, and Beinn Alligin Horns