Skye

27 – 30 May 2022

Almost as soon as I left Edinburgh to move into my new Groningen accommodation in mid-February, I was booking my return for a few weeks of remote work. The primary reason for the return was to spend time with my girlfriend, but there was also the opportunity to get away for a short excursion with my mum. Conveniently, the intended window coincided with the weekend my girlfriend was planning a break to Mull with a childhood friend who had flown in. Considering several possibilities, ranging from Rum to Assynt, a return to Skye was eventually settled on. Rum is just to inconvenient, and Assynt was not a good fit for my mum. Skye is overtouristed, but there is good infrastructure and Black Cuillin is well worth putting up with the crowds for. I loosely outlined two routes: a lengthy combination of Blà Bheinn and the Coastal Path, and an exploratory assault on the Cuillin.

Saturday, 28 May 2022

Weather is always a concern when making plans in the Highlands. particularly when on a fixed schedule. Of our two full days, both were iffy but the first was decidedly more optimistic. I therefore selected that day for the longer adventure up Blà Bheinn. I took the East Ridge scramble. SMC rate this at a 1, but that doesn’t seem right. S 2 seem much more appropriate. It was an excellent scramble, right up there with Curved Ridge, and views from the top were spectacular.

Looking toward Isle of Rum – one to return for

Bla Bheinn summit views

From the Munro, I took the southern ridge down. It made for a pleasant descent with exceptional views to Loch na Creitheach and Camasunary the entire way down. The upper reaches had a light-scrambly feel but the lower quickly maxed out the bog-factor. I spent some time exploring the beaches of Camasunary and directing confused tourists. Camasunary Bothy was looking a little worse for wear with a noticeable build-up of rubbish and I was glad I wasn’t spending the night. My route then called for me to skirt the base of Sgurr na Stri on the southern, coastal side culminating with the infamous ‘bad step’. To reach this, I had to cross Amhainn Camas Fhionnairidh. I found the crossing was very manageable, but I met a struggling German couple on the far side. They were a little shaken by the ‘bad step’ and coastal path. A little encouragement and the promise of a smoother option on the other side and they made it across.

Views on the coastal path were spectacular. The ‘bad step’ was a little underwhelming, but the change in angle made the turquoise waters really pop.

Camasunary

The ‘bad step’. Not all that intimidating…

Apparently there are delightful scrambles on the seaward flanks of Sgùrr na Strì. Clearly, I hadn’t done enough research though, so I blindly headed for the ‘standard’ route. Though had I known the scrambles, I would have missed the views from Coruisk Hut. I opted to take the ridge from Sgurr Hain rather than the easier track slightly below. This was both a [slightly] more interesting approach and provided excellent views east to Blà Bhein.

Sadly, the sun was in exactly the wrong position (morning is best) for the view directly up Loch Coruisk to Black Cuillin from Sgùrr na Strì – one of the finest views in all Scotland. I guess I will just have to return…

Loch Coruisk with the imposing wall of the Cuillin in the background

Loch na Creitheach and Bla Bheinn from Sgùrr na Strì

I was still doing well for time, but knew I had a long slog on the Sligachan Path. In fact, I was only about two-thirds of the way through. Given that I wasn’t sure of the path’s condition, I decided to head straight for Sligachan. I needn’t have worried, the path was abnormally smooth for Scotland – nearly reaching American styling. I made excellent time, quickly covering the remaining distance.

Crossing the many burns of the Sligachan Path

Sunday, 29 May 2022

The next day I hoped to do a section of the Cuillin Ridge. The plan was to start via Bruach na Frithe, one of the more approachable ascents, and get as far as I could along the ridge. Because I was solo and without rope, I had no real expectations.

Unfortunately, my weather luck was about to come to an end. There was room for cautious optimism in the early morning, but by the time I reached Bealach a’Mhaim, the cloud had closed in. I ascended Bruach na Frithe, but conditions on the ridge were very poor. I made the short traverse to Bealach nan Lice and and descended. On the way down, an overly optimistic climber asked for conditions on the ridge – he took my sarcastic response a little too literally.

Oppressive weather gathering on the Cuillin

One of my favourite Scottish trips to-date! Things didn’t work out with the Cuillin, but Blà Bheinn and the Coastal Path was exactly what I was hoping for. Despite Skye’s woeful reputation, crowds were very manageable – at least outside of Portree. It seems criminal to visit Skye without getting into the hills, but I won’t complain – let the tourists have Portree.

A route map for the Bla Bheinn route