Folgefonna National Park

20 – 28 August 2023

Folgefonna National Park, situated just southwest of Bergen, has long been about mid-way up my Norway wishlist. I had always intended to do it as a condensed autumnal trip, when the autumn colours would pop on the mountainsides the Hardanger Plateau would be sprinkled in a layer of powdered sugar. As it transpired though, there was a window in late-August when my mum invited me along for a quick trip and it seemed the perfect fit. Having previously experienced Bergen, there was little need for more than an overnight stop. A rather wet evening stroll up Ulriken was followed by the morning expressboat down the fjord to Rosendal.

Bergen, from Ulriken

21 – 24 August 2023

Upon arrival in Rosendal around noon, I immediately headed out for Bjørndalstindane, one of the local hills. It was a pleasant climb, but the cloud was rapidly rolling in as I descended.

The first full day in Rosendal had the best weather forecasted. It was therefore selected for the best hike: Fonnabu hut! The hike is very straightforward, featuring switchbacks and bridle trail for much of the climb but things became a little more interesting as the glacier neared. As I topped the moraine, the clouds lifted over Folgefonna and I was treated to some truly exceptional lighting! I had a bus to catch, so I was only able to explore for an hour or so. As I started down, another round of rain came through, so I didn’t feel as though I were missing too much. I hit Sundal and the main road with approximately 30 minutes before my bus – just the right amount of time to avoid stress and allow me to quickly take-in the fjord views.

Sundal and Maurangerfjorden

The weather window really came through! Lifting at just the right time

The second half of the time in Rosendal was characterized by low heavy cloud and scatterd rain. The weather was never as bad as the forecasts, but it also didn’t invite extensive outdoor exploration. I got a nice walk in everyday, but nothing like the scrambles I had planned. It was a good opportunity to relax inside and enjoy the fjord view.

Local views around Rosendal

24 – 27 August 2023

Frustratingly, the best weather of the trip arrived on the transfer day between Rosendal and Odda. It was a short distance, but given that we were tied to public transit, we had to move at fixed times. We chose the mid-morning bus, which would arrive by noon, hopefully leaving plenty of time for a hike before the forecasted late-afternoon storms moved in. I opted for Reinanuten, a top just off Folgefonna. With no public transit options, it would be a long slog just to reach the trailhead: approximately 4km on paved road and 2km on dirt road. I then had a vertical kilometer of trail to the top (1000m elevation in 3km). The views were absolutely worth the push though! The icefalls and waterfalls coming off Folgefonna are incredible. I briefly made my way out onto the glacier, but with nowhere really to go, there wasn’t much point. Returning to Odda, I was shattered. I had really pushed myself on the way out and up in order to beat the incoming weather and I felt it.

Jordal, in the shadow of the glacier

East to Jordalsnuten

The photos really doesn’t do the glacier justice

The remaining days in Odda featured predominantly heavy cloud and sometimes torrential rain. I was looking forward to getting Trolltunga in the bag, but it never happened. Without a car, Trolltunga requires an expensive shuttle bus. The forecast was never sufficiently promising to justify the cost and the actual conditions bore that out. Instead, I watched the weather and took any window I could for a local hike. There are plenty of options right from town.

Odda, as the weather moves in and out

The weather meant it was not as productive a trip as I had hoped for – it is hard to find the motivation to slog through a rainy 1200m climb when the only reward will be cloud. Still, it was nice to be able to relax in a pleasant location. And the two days when the weather cooperated, I was able to maximise the potential – the hikes really delivered. I do think I prefer the regions further north though.